Date: April 1, 2024 | Story: Stephanie Maxwell Newton | Photography: Bailey Dougan |
Nature photographer Tim Ernst shares memories and insights from a career spent exploring his favorite region of the state
Since he started photographing the Arkansas Ozarks in the early 1980s, Tim Ernst has published 20 coffee table books and more than 15 guidebooks detailing the region’s wilderness. Originally from Fayetteville, he followed his camera lens to Newton County, building a log cabin outside Jasper where his favorite subjects—the hiking trails, waterfalls, and scenery of the Ozarks—are just steps outside his front door.
Alongside his remarkable career, Tim is also known in the hiking world for his work developing the Ozarks Highlands Trail with fellow volunteers. This 270-mile trail stretches from Lake Fort Smith Park to Woolum, with plans to eventually extend to Norfork Lake and into Missouri. We spoke with Tim about his career, his relationship with the outdoors, and what makes the Ozarks such a special region of Arkansas.
Q: Tell us how you got into nature photography and the outdoors.
A: I grew up kind of on the outskirts of Fayetteville and spent a lot of my childhood just running around in the woods in the summertime. My dad always took my brothers and I hunting and fishing, so we sort of grew up outdoors. It wasn’t until I was in college that I bought my first camera; I was a teenager at the University of Arkansas and the first lens I bought was a “girl-watcher lens,” a $50 special out of a photography magazine. The very first thing I did was drive to the highest point in town that had a view to the west and photograph the sunset—and the view, that was pretty much it for me. I realized at that time that was what I wanted to do.
Q: What’s special about the Ozarks this time of year?
A: I’ve always called April in the Ozarks one of the greatest seasons on the planet. This is speaking as a photographer. Springtime is just really magical. As the leaves are coming out in the trees, they have a very special color to them; it’s almost a fluorescent green. You have dogwoods maybe still blooming all over the place and redbuds from March, too. Our spring is a little bit later than, for instance, the Ouachitas down in central Arkansas, so when spring starts to wash away down there, up in the Ozarks it’s just getting started. There are lots of waterfalls, too. It’s beautiful to be hiking and see some of the waterfalls along the trail with dogwoods and redbuds all around.
Q: Do you have a favorite section of the Ozark Highlands Trail?
A: Well, right now it’s a section that my wife and I help maintain, which is actually down on one of the newest sections along the Buffalo River between Grinder’s Ferry and Dillard’s Ferry. It’s one of the few sections of hiking trail that is in virtually pristine condition. I’ll bet there haven’t been two dozen people who have seen that piece of trail in the past several months. That area has some of the best views of the Buffalo River, and earlier in the season, you’ll hardly see anyone. It’s not like hiking in places like Colorado or in the Appalachian Mountains; you get a feeling of solitude. A lot of the Ozarks are still like that.
Read on for a few more of our favorite ways to discover the Ozarks.
Neighbor’s Mill Bakery & Café in Harrison.
An order of French toast and bacon at Neighbor’s Mill.
Outside Scenic Point Gift Shop on Highway 7.
Hotel Seville in Harrison.
Jasper Pizza Company in Downtown Jasper.
Ozark Cafe in Jasper.
The Cliff House Inn.
More Ways to Discover the Ozarks
SHOP
In Harrison, Benton House Designs (bentonhousedesigns.com) is a clothing and gift shop as well as an Aveda Concept Salon and Spa and yoga studio, all under one roof. Shop their selection of women’s fashion, accessories, and home décor while awaiting your next salon treatment. For a curated selection of handmade and artisan wares, head to The Little Hill Shop (skylarkforever.com) in Leslie, operated by the owners of beloved Skylark Cafe.
DINE
While taking U.S. Highway 65, Ryan’s Main Street Bar & Grill (870.447.2264) in Leslie is the perfect spot for a steak, cheeseburger, or slice of homemade strawberry pie. In Harrison, Neighbor’s Mill Bakery & Café (neighborsmill.com) is a local favorite for fresh-baked breads as well as a lunch menu of sandwiches, soups, and salads.
VISIT
If you’re headed to the region to float the Buffalo National River, Buffalo River Outfitters (buffaloriveroutfitters.com) is your go-to resource for canoe and kayak rentals, shuttle service, and accommodations ranging from outdoor camping to cabins. Avid anglers suggest Stetson’s on the White River (stetsons-resort.com) for easy access to some of the best trout fishing in the world along with boat rentals, lodging, and guided trips.
